On the main market street
of the Old City, which begins at Damascus Gate and is called in arabic Suk Khan
e-Zeit (the olive oil caravansary market), you will find
a quaint pastry shop called Zalatimo. The speciality there is a sweet
with cheese and walnut filling baked in the oven. The shop is mentioned
in the most reputable guidebooks on Jerusalem, and indeed, Zalatimo is
well worth a visit, but not just for the pastries. At the back of the
shop you will find some extraordinary archaeological remains of the first
Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
The confectioner's secret
a stroll on the mosaic with your mouse.
The Cardo was the main road that cut all Roman cities in half from north to south.You can see three churches on the map: two of them face west while their altars face east (as almost all Byzantine and Crusader churches were oriented). The third church is strangely oriented the opposite way; in fact, the map artist had to draw it backwards. This church has a three-door monumental gate. These elements have convinced historians that the third church is the first Holy Sepulchre Basilica.
In fact, Constantine wanted the Holy Sepulchre Church to be monumental: thus, it was crucial for the church's entrance to face both the most important street in Jerusalem, the Cardo, and the tomb of Jesus Christ, which was west of the street. The present Holy Sepulchre Basilica is not on the Cardo and does not face the west. Why? When the church was rebuilt by the Crusaders, the Cardo was no longer the main street of the city. Moreover, in the meantime the Muslims had built a mosque in the atrium of the Constantinian building. This limited the extension of the new church, which was subsequently oriented according to tradition, eastwards.